D-Day

I found myself in Germany on the 70^th anniversary of D-Day. A long-time friend picked me up at Frankfurt Airport and told me we were making “a stop” on the way to his house. The stop was the home of an older couple that I met last October when my wife and I hosted them along with my friend for a few days when they were traveling in the eastern US. They wanted to have lunch with their recently minted American friend and “speak English”. We sat outside under a bright blue sky on a perfect, peaceful June Day. Both German and American flags were flying in the backyard. It was hard for me to imagine the adrenaline rush that my father was having 70 years earlier as he anticipated crossing the English Channel.

My Father - "Thanks Dad"

The topic of D-day came up and I gingerly took out my IPhone and went to my camera role where I had two pictures of my Dad in a screen shot I saved of pictures that my sister had posted on Facebook earlier in the day. As my hosts glanced at the image of a college age American in uniform from decades before, I began to ponder how odd the world I inhabit would have seemed to the young man in the picture. My father was part of the invasion force coming over on the second day and like most of “the greatest generation” never talked about it until late in life and then only when asked.

The final destination of my trip is China – Germany only a stopover to see a friend. D-Day was not in my mind when I booked the ticket. The timing of the trip was driven by an invitation to speak at a lithium battery forum in western China. The invitation was officially from the government of the province but was really the doing of an old friend who was tasked to invite some “foreign experts”. I definitely qualify as a foreigner and I think they were “rounding up” on the expert part. It would have been hard for either of my parents to imagine me being invited to China as a guest of the government.

The only other “major” anniversary of D-Day I remember was 40 years. What I recall was President Reagan’s speech. I was in the midst of graduate school on that June day. I had never been outside North America and the idea of ever living in Japan would have been “not impossible but not very likely”. Living in China would have been “impossible”. I was with my Dad but there was no discussion of his part in the D-Day invasion force. He wasn’t ready – even after 40 years.

The week before my current trip, American TV was rife with comments about the 70^th anniversary. Of course, as times passes, there are less and less D-Day participants around to interview about one of epic battles of all time. 

Yesterday, we didn’t dwell on the topic of D-Day over lunch but the brief discussion stayed in the back of my mind as we drove through the German countryside to my friend’s home. I am old enough to remember the cold war and Viet Nam. I turned 18 just as Saigon was falling so I was never faced with being in armed conflict. My nieces and nephews went to places like Iraq and Afghanistan. I was born in the era that fell in between wars. Maybe because of this, I often think about the sacrifices of the generations on either side of mine. 

I have spent more time in the past twenty years in Japan and China than in the US. Now I make my living largely because of my experiences and relationships in Asia. My Uncle was part of the battle of Iwo Jima – we didn’t learn the details until after his death a few years ago. In the early 1950s, my Uncle was an ex-pat in Japan working for Pepsi. After his death I was given pictures taken of him at parties in Ginza and other parts of Tokyo I am very familiar with. I have always regretted not having the chance to talk to my Uncle about the experiences he kept to himself.

The year I graduated from college I had dinner with my Uncle. He asked about my future which was very uncertain. That night he told me to consider living overseas. His advice was quickly forgotten but came back to me 20 years later when I was offered the chance to move to Japan. The opportunities I have today to travel the world are due to the sacrifices of those who were born before me and after me. I can only say "thank you".

Crossing the Line

One experience common to all international travelers takes place shortly after you exit the plane. In some cities like Singapore the walk through passport control and customs takes place so efficiently it goes almost unnoticed. In other places, like LA or Washington, the experience can be grueling and add two hours or more to your trip. Although each country has its own procedure for granting permission to enter, there is usually the common element of waiting behind a line before your passport and luggage is checked.

I like the sheep analogy

After more than two decades of international travel and adding hundreds of stamps to my passport(s), I feel reasonably well qualified to comment on the topic. Although the basic procedures haven’t changed that much over the years, improvements in technology and the rise of terrorism have certainly changed the experience.
 

In the mid-1990s, when I first started traveling to Hong Kong, the only unpleasant aspect of the trips was the period between getting off the Cathay Pacific 747 and getting into the waiting hotel car. The immigration hall at the old Kai Tak airport was hot and crowded. Getting to the front of the line was how I learned what it would have been like to play rugby. A small price to pay to visit Hong Kong.
 

Of course, landing at Kai Tak was always exciting given its close proximity hundreds of apartment building. You could literally see people inside their living rooms and kitchens on final approach. Kai Tak closed in 1998 – check out the old BBC video on YouTube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3PCOcyt7BPI

Hong Kong now has a modern, if less exciting, airport with rapid immigration procedures.

 

Never a dull moment landing at Kai Tak

I visited Singapore on my first trip to Asia shortly after an American teenager named Michael Fay was sentenced to a good old fashion caning for theft and vandalism. The warning on the Singapore landing card that states in bold letters “DEATH FOR DRUG TRAFFICKERS UNDER SINGAPORE LAW” didn’t strike me as terribly welcoming. I was a little concerned getting on the plane. In fact I left my “Wrigley’s” in the Hong Kong airport because I didn’t know what the punishment was in Singapore for “gum” traffickers. My worries were wasted energy. I found Singapore to have the fastest and friendliest entry procedures I have ever encountered. Who else has a jar of fruit candies at each passport counter?  Singapore is a great place to spend a few gum-less days.  Despite the severe appearance of landing card warning, the city is friendly, modern and has great service.  Nobody does Christmas decorations better than the people of the ”Lion City”. 

Merry Christmas - Singapore style

 I have flown in and out of Japan more than any other country. When I was a resident of Japan, my resident (aka “gaijin”) card allowed me to enter the country via the Japanese line – always fast.  After my period as a “card carrying gaijin” ended; entering Japan was still relatively quick and effortless but required a little planning. There are certain passports (I will not name them) that draw more scrutiny from Japanese authorities than others. You never want to enter the foreigner immigration line with a 747 load of citizens from one of these unnamed countries in line ahead of you. I learned the hard way – I think I could have read “War and Peace” before I got to the window on the unhappy day I learned that lesson. In any case, Japan gets a five star ranking for passport control and customs clearance.

A lesson on "giving the finger(s)" at Narita Airport

 

My impression of Australians is that they are a generally friendly, low key bunch. After more than a dozen visits, I still believe that with one exception. The customs people in Australia seem to me to put the “A” in the country name – “A” for anal that is. I understand their “island nation” argument as to why they worry so much about what is brought into "Oz" that could cause issues with their ecosystem. On the other hand, Japan is an island nation and they don’t do the over the top searches and inquisitions. My dopp kit has been searched several times "down under". Like most global travelers, I carry pills for diarrhea, colds, etc. Sometimes the labels on the packages get worn. Even when  it is obvious what the item is, if the label isn’t perfect; say goodbye. Aussie Border Security also seems to think “heroin” is spelled “Sudafed”.  Ok – I know what some of you are thinking - Japan probably has as more regulations than Australia. The Japanese are just much more pleasant about how they handle their procedures. Even when I have had an OTC med in my bag and been inspected in Japan, there has never been an issue. I actually had friends have their unopened box of tea bags seized at customs in Australia. #lightenupmate

Maybe Australia Border security should focus on their job instead of their reality TV show

I have a theory that Australia and Germany have an exchange program for customs people. I always expected Germany to be efficient and tough with respect to entry procedures but after more than 50 trips through Frankfurt, I have never had an unpleasant experience (except for a two mile walk between gates on occasion when transiting) and gotten a lot more friendly service in Deutschland than I have in Oz. I still love Australia except for entering and exiting.

One of my favorite procedures for getting inspected was the old “button game” in Argentina. They no longer do this but when I first started going to Buenos Aires,  as you exited customs, you pushed a button – if the light turned green, you could go. If the light turned red, you were inspected. I got a few reds over the years but it never took long to complete the inspection. Unfortunately, the button went the way of $1 Malbec.  
 

Finally, I am glad I am American because with the Global Entry program entering the US is a breeze. I put my right hand on the fingerprint scanner, smile for the camera and head out. I have never had to wait for a Global entry kiosk.  The application fee is the best $100 I ever spent. Unfortunately for non-citizens and Americans without a Global Entry card, entering the US can be a huge hassle. Many of the US gateway airports are simply 3^rd world operations. LAX is a national embarrassment where it can take over 2 hours to get through customs on a regular basis. Washington Dulles operates like a government project run amok. We owe visitors an apology for the sorry state of many of our airports but there is no excuse for the slipshod way we handle the entry procedures for visitors. The US still seems to use "security" concerns after 9/11 to run an inefficient, overstaffed with under-qualified people operation. Anybody who travels overseas frequently learns that there are better ways to run immigration and security than the US does.

Wall Street Journal depiction of summer at US entry checkpoints

 Just as the service on US airlines has fallen behind competitors from Asia and maybe a couple in Europe and the Middle East, except for Global Entry and TSA Pre, the US government has failed to use technology effectively at our airports. I look forward to the day when I don’t have to apologize to my overseas friends for the hassle it is to “cross the line” in most American airports.

Seen on the Way

In twenty plus years of traveling around the world, the odds are that sooner or later you will come across a famous person or two. Over the years, I have been seatmates or first class lounge mates with a number of luminaries or former luminaries.

The list includes: multiple US presidential candidates (early in campaigns before they had their own planes or, in one case, afterwards when nobody cared), a few football greats such as #39 from the Dolphins and a former QB and current broadcaster that can be seen on cable hawking “super beta prostate” at all hours of the day and night, the recently named NFC "coach of the year", several actors and actresses - “JR’s wife”, “Roseanne’s husband”, musicians of every genre, a martial arts star who is clearly afraid to fly, a princess, half of the IOC members on their way to the winter games, and the list goes on.

This is NOT one of the famous people I have seen "In the Air"

The interesting thing is despite being high profile people, I have never seen one of them act like a diva either in the air or on the ground. I am sure it happens but I have never seen it. I see a lot of bad behavior by average businessmen when they bully gate agents over upgrades they didn’t get or whine to flight attendants about their meal choice not being available. Perhaps there is a mea culpa or two in that last sentence…

Once after coming off a long flight I was “roughly handled” but not hurt by a crew of large necked security people waiting for their charge (and my seat mate on the flight) to clear customs. I guess they thought I was walking too close to her as we came out of the secure area still chatting. She immediately called them down and then explained how security made her feel vulnerable. Actually it made me feel vulnerable too. I said “goodbye” but she insisted I ride with her in a private railcar to Tokyo Station – that was very cool.  

My wife had one of my favorite interactions at a lounge in Osaka Japan. She was reaching for a drink at the same time another hand was going for the same beverage. Turns out she beat the “man with the long tongue from KISS” to a Diet Coke. We talked to several members of the band and they seemed like average guys ending a long business trip.

Another favorite was on a long flight to Singapore. I got up in the middle of the night to use the rest room. As I walked down the aisle, I saw one of the world’s leading motivational speakers (can you say “personal power”?) stretched out in his first class cubicle with his mouth wide open at an odd angle. I resisted the brief bout of voyeurism along with the urge to use my cell phone camera and went about my business.

Fortunately I have no tendency towards identity theft. A few years ago I was reading my email in a lounge cubicle waiting to fly to Japan when a very famous actor sat down in the next cubicle. He reached for the phone and made a call. Blessed with good ears, I heard every word including the hotel where he was making a reservation and his credit card details. No, I didn’t try to memorize them. I didn’t know whether to be more impressed by the fact that: 1) this “A” lister flew commercially  2) he made his own hotel reservation 3) he had no entourage or 4) he gave out his credit card info over the phone in a voice loud enough for several people to hear. One more thing – the guy is a lot shorter than he looks on the big screen.

From my less than 15 minutes of fame on NHK

 For me flying is generally a solitary experience where time is taken up reading, watching movies or sleeping. As a diversion, I have enjoyed spotting and observing the behavior of famous people over the years. At least as far as travel is concerned, they seem a pretty average bunch.